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Situated on the fourth floor of a swank mall at Columbus Circle, in New York City, is Per Se, a Thomas Keller eatery (he also owns and is the chef of the famed French Laundry in Northern California). Per Se is one of only three 3 star Michelin rated restaurants in Manhattan.
"Three Michelin Stars: Exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey. One always eats here extremely well, sometimes superbly. Fine wines, faultless service, elegant surroundings. One will pay accordingly!"
--Michelin Guide definition of 3 star rating.
You can imagine how excited I was to go to this restaurant. I went with 5 lucky ladies, Natalie and Nicky, (from the Melisse event in Los Angeles) Stella, Gabriella, and a German girl named Hanna. Calling just as the reservations lined opened, 'gourmet gone wild Natalie' scored us these coveted reservations two months in advance. We all thought we'd be transported to utopia during our prix-fixe nine course meal, but sadly, our expectations weren't met. The service was great, with the exception of one bus boy who spilled water all over our table. I thought it was amusing to see a swarm of wait staff and managers rush to the table to take care of it. In the finest of fine dining there's no room for error. This incident did not make me judge the evening any worse. For me, it's all about the food and value of the meal, but sadly the food at Per Se wasn't of excellent caliber. And for the expensive price tag, this meal should have been perfection in every sense.
We started off with a Grey Goose martini, which was delicious. Champagne was next and it paired well with the lovely amuse bouche of salmon foam and caviar. The amuse bouche was followed by a two hour, nine course tour.
Here is what I had to eat:
1. “OYSTERS AND PEARLS”
Sabayon of Pearl Tapioca with Island Greek Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar.
This was the best dish on the menu. It was delicious!
2. SALAD OF HAWAIIAN HEARTS OF PEACH PALM
Compressed English Cucumbers, Confit of Citrus Supremes and Petite Mint with Persian Lime Gelee.
Just ok
3. GRILLED PAVE OF BIG-EYE TUNA
Shaved Bottarga, Cipollini Onions, Haricots Verts (green beans) and Parsley Shoots.
Good
4. BUTTER POACHED NOVA SCOTIA LOBSTER
Melted Belgian Endive, Granny Smith Apple Fondant Crystallized Apple Chip and Cider Mignonnette Jus.
Not memorable
5. ALL-DAY BRAISED HOBBS SHORE’S PORK BELLY
Ragout of French Green Lentils, Purple Top Turnips and Frisee Lettuce with Pork Sauce.
Very Good
6. DEGUSTATION of HALLORAN FARM’S VENISON
Black Trumpet Mushrooms. Brussels Sprouts and Chestnut Puree.
Bland
7. CHAROLLAIS
Slow Baked Beets, Picked Crosnes, Mustard Cress and Toasted English Walnut Butter with Mustard Seed Aige-Doux.
Not memorable
8. BLU DEL MONCHENISIO
Tellicherry Pepper Shortbread, Michigan Sour Cherries, Young Celery and Ficklin Port Reduction.
Good
9. PALET D’OR
Melange au Trois Chocolates
Not great... had a better trois chocolate dessert in Toronto recently (wait for that review.)
There were many lovely freshly-made breads, which were wonderful, and we were treated to some amazing house-made chocolates. Overall, Per Se is a sexy place, but I don't think it’s worth the price tag. You can get better meals for a third of the price in numerous other eateries in Manhattan. This place is for retired CEOs and their mistresses, not young love.
XX 1/2
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